Lots to Eat
Its dual address summons up flattering visions of country estates and urban sophistication. Haunch of Venison Yard and New Bond Street. Neither entrance is entirely obvious. The former is through a passageway into a courtyard; the latter is through an auction gallery, down a dogleg, up a spiral. London for Moschino trousered Londoners. Not forgetting rich Americans and Asians. The restaurant is in a back room, and that’s a compliment. Reticent, exclusive, discreet; in the know, in the now.
Daringly, sparingly white walls except for one wall of windows. Just four carefully chosen artworks: Demolition Squad by William Roberts, British, 1895 to 1980 (£50,000 to £70,000) | Untitled by Sam Francis, American, 1923 to 1994 (£8,000 to £12,000) | The Musician by John Craxton, British, 1922 to 2009 (£30,000 to £50,000) | Tulips No.1 by Ivon Hitchens, British, 1893 to 1979, (£25,000 to £35,000).
An early 21st century restaurant serenade to a late 18th century auction house. Welcome to Bonhams Restaurant, strings attached. Only 24 covers. Head Chef Tom Kemble’s dishes live up to the address. All the freshness of the outdoors and all the style of the city. And a splash of the sea. Michelin starred Mayfair. Three course lunch £50 (excluding some liquid refreshment):
- Amuse bouche: eel and pea
- Razor clams: pickled dulse, bottanga and salty fingers
- Amuse bouche: poached oyster and more pea
- Slow cooked turbot: white asparagus, Muscat grapes, cuttlefish and gem lettuce velouté (£6 extra)
- Mango millefeuille: coconut and rum crème diplomat
- Vino: 2016 Vouvray Sec Cuvée Silex, Domaine Guilhem et Jean-Hughes Goisot Burgundy